Matterhorn History

First estimate of Matterhorn's altitude

Horace Benedict de Saussure. A scientist and explorer estimated the Matterhorn height at 14769 ft (4501 metres).

1792

Formation of the Alpine Club in London.

1857

First attempts

First attempts to summit the Matterhorn were made by Cervinia mountain guides Jean-Antoine and Jean-Jacques Carrel via the Lion ridge on the Italian side of the mountain.

1857

Whymper's First Attempts

Edward Whymper

Edward Whymper, a young British artist made his first attempt at the summit, also from the Italian side. Photograph © Zermatt Tourismus

1861 & 1862

Whymper tries again

Whymper joins forces with Jean-Antoine Carrel to make another, unsuccessful, ascent of the Lion ridge.

1863

Whymper arrives back in Cervinia and tries to hire Carrel as a guide once more. Realising Carrel has ambitions to make an entirely Italian summit bid to promote the newly formed Italian Alpine Club, Whymper travels to Zermatt to try the daunting Swiss side of the mountain.

7 July 1865

Whymper joins forces with Lord Francis Douglas, Rev Charles Hudson and Douglas Hadow and their French guide Michel Croz. They employ Swiss guides Peter Taugwalder Snr and Jnr.

12 July 1865

The team set out from Zermatt up the Hörnli ridge, finding it easier than they had expected, and camp on the ridge at 3380m. A little higher than the location of the Hornli Hut where most climbers stay the night before an ascent today.

13 July 1865
The first ascent

The team set out at dawn and reach the Summit of the Matterhorn at 1:40pm. They see Carrel and the Italian team 400m below them on the Italian side.

After spending an hour on the Summit, the climbers started their descent. Hadow was soon struggling and Croz was literally placing his feet into the holds to help him with each step. As Croz moved forwards, Hadow slipped and sent them both tumbling over the rocks. The rope pulled Douglas and Hudson with them and, as it came tight with a jolt to the Taugwalder guides and Whymper, snapped. The four falling climbers fell 1200m down the north face of the mountain. Photograph © Zermatt Tourismus

14 July 1865

The three remaining climbers arrive back in Zermatt.

15 July 1865

The first ascent from Italy

The team set out at dawn and reach the Summit of the Matterhorn at 1:40pm. They see Carrel and the Italian team 400m below them on the Italian side.

Jean-Antoine Carrel makes the first ascent from the Italian side of the mountain.

16 July 1865

First female ascent

Lucy Walker makes the first female ascent, via the Hörnli ridge. Photograph © Zermatt Tourismus

22 August 1871

The first ascent of the Zmutt ridge

The Zmutt (north-west) ridge is climbed.

1879

Hörnli Hut built

The Hornli Hut is built to house climbers before their ascents. Photograph © Zermatt Tourismus

1880

The first ascent of the Furggen Ridge

The final ridge, the Furggen (south-east) ridge, is climbed.

1911

Solvay Hut built

The Solvay hut is built. It’s an emergency bivouac hut at 4003m.

1917

The first ascent of the North Face

The north face of the Matterhorn is first climbed by brothers Franz and Toni Schmid.

1931

North face soloed in 1hr 54mins

The ‘Swiss Machine’ Ueli Steck climbs the north face in just 1hr 54mins.

2009
Kilian Jornet sets record from Cervinia

Spanish mountain runner, Killian Jornet set the record climbing from Cervinia to the summit and back in just 2hrs 52mins.

2013

North face soloed in 1hr 46mins

Dani Arnold solos the North Face in 1hr 46 mins

2015

150th Anniversary of first ascent

The 150th anniversary of the first ascent is celebrated by lighting the Hornli ridge route and a complete renovation of the Hörnli Hut.

2015

Andy Steindl climbs from the church square to the summit and back in 3hrs 59min

Zermatt guide and mountain runner, Andy Steindl makes an ascent from Zermatt church to the summit and back in 3hrs 59mins.

2018

All four ridges climbed in 16hrs

Andy Steindl teams up with Francois Cazzanelli to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16hrs 4mins.

2018

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